Venue Vivaness: Natural cosmetics driving innovation and growth
by Redaktion (comments: 0)
(Picture: Vivaness: New products are in the spotlight)
As announced at the Natural Cosmetics Conference in Berlin in September, the German market for certified natural cosmetics grew by 10.2 % in the first half of 2013 according to calculations by the consumer researcher Gesellschaft für Konsumforschung (GfK) of Nürnberg (D). The market experts expect sales in Germany to rise to over 950 million EUR by the end of the year and top the billion mark next year. Compared with the previous year, sales of natural cosmetic products via all sales channels grew by some 90 million euros. Hypermarkets and supermarkets registered particularly large growth in the first half-year, whereas the classic sales channels in the retail trade (pharmacies, organic food and natural cosmetics trade, health food stores) are stagnating and barely able to expand their market share. The drugstores, mainly Budnikowsky, dm, Müller and Rossmann, are maintaining their strong position and continuing to develop their leadership in the German market. However, certified natural cosmetics are also to be found as special offers and in the range of discounters. This has positively influenced sales development. (Picture: Budnikowsky drugstore outlet in Hamburg)
Changes are mainly to be seen in the marketing strategies of the brand manufacturers, which are adopting new ways to attract the attention of further consumer groups. Natural cosmetics manufacturers score with appearances at high-publicity events like film festivals Dr. Hauschka, Logona), fashion shows (Lavera, Logona) and galas and in television advertising (Lavera, Weleda) and reach new target groups this way. In combination with the increasingly critical attitude of many consumers to problematic ingredients, natural cosmetics are gaining more customers. Analyses by Gesellschaft für Konsumforschung (GfK) of Nürnberg (D) show that the reach increased by 2 % to 21 %. (Bild: Logocos works together with fashion designer Michael Michalsky)
Besides the representatives of the Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability (LOHAS) with their affinity for natural cosmetics, more and more young people prefer a sustainable lifestyle. The environment, climate protection, animal welfare, regionality and social justice play a key role for them when shopping. Before buying they frequently gather information about the products on the Internet or from the shelf using apps. These socially conscious consumers are also not afraid to express their discontent with problematic ingredients and, for example, organize online petitions to ban the use of these substances in the future. (Picture: A online-petition gathered over 80.000 votes against hormones in cosmetics)
Similar trends are noticeable in many European countries and are becoming apparent at international level too. For example, natural cosmetics are also continuing to grow dynamically in the neighbouring countries of France, Italy and Switzerland. The international market researcher Kline & Company, Parsippany, New Jersey (USA), currently assumes global sales of natural cosmetics (at manufacturer level) of about 29.5 billion US dollars; the US market in 2013 is expected to reach sales of 4.5 billion US dollars (+7 %) at trading level. However, this projection also includes non-certified products – called naturally inspired products – like herbal and pharmacy cosmetics. According to Kline, a definite trend to certified natural cosmetics is emerging, however. Experts estimate global sales of these at more than 9 billion US dollars. (Picture: a huge offer of natural personal care at Whole Foods Market but not everything is certified)
In France natural cosmetics have now reached a market share of some 4 %, with sales of certified natural cosmetics at 380 million EUR in 2012, according to the natural cosmetics association and certifier Cosmebio, Valence (F). If the naturally inspired cosmetics segment is added, the market volume should reach just under 450 million EUR by the end of 2013. (Picture: Natural personal care at Mademoiselle Bio in Paris)
Italy is also growing. The association Cosmetica Italia, Borgarello/ Pavia (I), recently published the current market data: Sales of natural cosmetic products (certified and naturally inspired) have risen by 3.5 % in the first six months of 2013, so that the experts expect total sales of 410 million EUR by the end of the year.
In Switzerland the market for natural cosmetics is very positive, according to Roger Bachmann from BioPartner, the leading wholesaler for organic food and certified natural cosmetics. The natural cosmetics share of the total cosmetics market is estimated at about 3 %. The expert thinks natural cosmetics brands can generally look forward to two-figure growth rates. In contrast to Germany, the organic food stores and health food stores in Switzerland have so far maintained their leading position as traditional sales channels. However, especially department stores but also pharmacies and drugstores have expanded their ranges and increased sales. (Picture: The city outlet of the Swiss company Coop with a big assortment on natural brands)
The interest in natural cosmetics is also growing steadily in the Swiss online trade: Portanatura is the leading online shop in this segment. In the fixed-location trade, the chain and recently merged health food and organic stores, Egli and Müller, as well as the two market leaders in the retail trade, Coop, and Migros, stock a broad selection of natural cosmetics. Coop has created its own Naturaline series of certified natural cosmetics and lists a well-known German brand too. Competitor Migros scores through its cooperation with the German trading company Alnatura and stocks an extensive range of natural cosmetics in the joint organic supermarket in Zurich. In general Swiss consumers attach great value to quality. They are much more critical of ingredients than previously, just as is apparent in other European countries and worldwide too. Consumer TV programmes help to form opinions on this issue. Veganism is also being discussed to a growing extent and could give sales of natural cosmetics another boost. (Picture: Alnatura Migros has meters of cosmetics and body care)
Natural cosmetics have driven innovation and growth in the worldwide cosmetics sector for years. An end to the green beauty trend is not yet in sight. The global demand for more nature in pots and tubes continues. Market researchers assume that the world market for natural cosmetics will remain on its distinct growth path in the coming years. Research and development have to be innovative and look for sensible, fair and sustainable alternatives. Instead of devastating the natural environment and exploiting small farmers in the third world, what we need are fair relations, or rather the support for socially and economically disadvantaged people and the expansion of organic agriculture worldwide. Natural cosmetics companies are striving to achieve precisely this aim. They are also fulfilling a social obligation, because the customer of tomorrow wants transparency, the implementation of values and consideration shown for the environment. (Picture: Nature First in Zurich: A highlight in natural personal care marketing)
Trend researchers maintain that consumption in the future will be fairer and more value-orientated. Life-cycle analyses come to the conclusion that consumers in the western world, on account of their purchasing and consumption behaviour, are still responsible for a large measure of environmental pollution. So the consumer too must change the way he thinks. A growing number of people recognize this and are prepared to modify their behaviour. Considering a new continent made of plastic waste the size of India has emerged, the Great Pacific Garbage Patch, there can be no doubt that action is imperative. Natural cosmetics manufacturers are continually on the look-out for solutions that will make production and packaging more sustainable. This is why the current certification requirements for controlled natural cosmetics not only include regulations governing ingredients but also guidelines for the highest possible level of sustainable and environmentally friendly packaging. (Picture: Seed papers can be a environment friendly packaging)
A trend that has recently received a great deal of attention is veganism. There is a strong demand not only for vegan food but also for animal-free cosmetics. In this respect, manufacturers of natural cosmetics are ahead of the game. Many of their products don’t in any case contain ingredients of animal origin because, overall, very few substances of this kind are permitted. However, for natural cosmetics, honey, beeswax and wool fat remain important ingredients. They are excluded from vegan cosmetics. The term vegan cosmetics does not, however, mean that all these cosmetics are controlled natural cosmetics. The animal-based raw materials mentioned above are often replaced in vegan products by synthetic ingredients. However, a return to cosmetics based on mineral oil is certainly not something that many well informed consumers want – they prefer to rely on the power of nature. (Picture: Veganz Berlin: There is only vegan cosmetic on the shelves)
Visiting professionals can once again discover the innovations of the around 200 firms from over the world at Vivaness from 12–15 February 2014.
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